Beaches and LadyBoys: Southern Thailand

After one week beach hopping in Thailand, I am three things: extremely sunburnt, rejuvenated from the calm of the blue sea and sandy beaches, and much poorer than when I arrived. On my very last night in Koh Tao (and on my 22nd birthday!!), my new friends and I spent the night celebrating with a fresh seafood dinner on the beach, and then by drinking and dancing the night away at the famed Lotus Beach bar. It was a magical birthday night filled with fire shows and live music...until things got a little out of hand and I decided that it would be a good idea to go skinny dipping in the gulf of Thailand. Lo and behold, I returned to the shore only to find my belongings sprawled on the white sand...minus one purse. Goodbye phone, wallet, credit cards...who needs you anyway when you are young and free in Thailand! Oh wait...I do. That was probably one of the dumbest things I have ever done in my life - but hey, it's my birthday, betch. The next morning, my local guide ushered me on the back of his scooter to the local police station to file a theft report (as if that would bring back the perpetrator, with my belongings in tow).

 My 22nd birthday in Koh Tao, Thailand

 Partying at the Lotus Bar, Koh Tao

 Fire Spinning at the Lotus Bar, Koh Tao

Beside that minor setback, my time in Thailand so far has been an experience I'll never forget. I started off the next leg of my journey by flying into Bangkok, where I spent two days visiting the bustling night markets, walking down the streets of the colourful and chaotic China town, exploring the Grand Palace, Wat Prakeaw and its beautiful grounds, shopping and drinking towers of Chang along the infamous Khao San Road, and of course eating as much Pad thai as I could possibly stuff in my mouth at once. The pad thai alone would be reason enough for a person to fall in love with Bangkok. Consisting of stir-fried rice noodles with eggs, fish sauce, tamarind juice, red chili peppers, plus any combination of bean sprouts, shrimp, chicken, beef, or anything else, garnished with crushed peanuts, coriander and lime, this dish is perfection materialized into an ingestible carbohydrate overload. Only in the populous capital of Thailand can you get this beautiful mixture of fresh ingredients in the most ideal proportions for a bare 60 Baht (2$) from any food stall along the side of the road.

 Khao San Road: the backpacker's mecca (not my picture)

(not my picture) 

 Pad Thai on Khao San Road

 Yummy! Crispy Critters

Khao San Road by night (not my picture)

 Bangkok's China Town (not my picture)

 The Grand Palace

 Entering Bangkok's China Town

 My first tuk-tuk ride!

 Kid's posing for pictures in Bangkok

Wat Arun, also known as the Temple of Dawn monastery

After a crazy couple of days in Bangkok, it was time to take the night train South of the country to revel in the natural beauty of Khao Sok National Park. Khao Sok NP is covered by the oldest evergreen rainforest in the world, enormous limestone mountains shooting straight up to the sky, deep valleys, breathtaking lakes, mysterious caves, wild animals and much, much more. I spent one night here amidst the rainforest in my very own tree house bungalow, and spent the day trekking along the paths. Because it was monsoon season, the paths were muddy and swarmed with leaches, sticking onto every exposed part of our bodies - an extremely unpleasant sensation. Although I only spent one day in the National Park, there are enough activities to easily fill up a a week - from hiking to canoeing, tubing to bamboo rafting, Khao Sok National Park is a paradise for nature lovers and thrill seekers alike.

Entrance to Khao Sok national park

 Floating houses (not my photo) 

River rafting (not my photo)

Monkeying around

Next stop: Koh Samui! Koh Samui is one of the most visited islands in Thailand and the largest in an archipelago of around 80 islands. Once on the island, it is easy to understand what attracts the flocks of tourists to this destination year after year - beautiful beaches, coconut palms, fresh seafood and warm, clear waters, Koh Samui has it all. Here, I spent two incredible days soaking up the sun on the pristine beaches, getting spoiled with Thai massages and pedicures right by the ocean, and enjoying the vibrant nightlife of the island.

 On the ferry to Koh Samui

Motorbiking around Koh Samui

After that, I continued onto Koh Tao, also known as "Turtle Island", well known for its scuba diving and snorkelling. With its rich and diverse marine life and coral reefs, Koh Tao is slowly becoming one of the most popular destinations in the world to learn how to dive, attracting beginners and profesionals alike. I spent two days here snorkelling the clear blue waters and bumming along the beach. On our snorkelling tour, we stopped at a private island just off of Koh Tao known as Koh Nang Yuan. Although there is a 100 Baht entrance fee, it is definitely worth the money and it is a must-see for any tourist visiting the area! It was one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to, with crystal clear emerald green water and stunning pebbled beaches. Since we arrived to the tiny island pretty early, we were lucky enough to have the island all to ourselves for a while before the swarm of tourists arrived. One of the highlights was the short 10-15 minute hike up to the island's highest peak, where there were spectacular views of the three little teardrops of land that compose Koh Nang Yuan, all connected by a massive sandbar. But don't be fooled by the short distance to the top!! The combination of the steep path and heat of midday makes it quite a workout - but one that will be quickly rewarded when you reach the top.

Arriving in Koh Tao (aka Turtle Island)

Long tail boats

Sairee Beach, Koh Tao

View of Koh Ngan Yuan from the highest peak

Back to Koh Tao in the early evening, we spent the night strolling along the streets of Sairee Beach. After dinner, we decided to check out the Queens Ladyboy cabaret show! From the energetic dance routines to the glamorous makeup and costumes, the entire show was non-stop entertainment. The ladyboys pranced around the stage with confidence and fabulousness, lip synching to songs by the original divas themselves (Beyonce, Lady Gaga, etc.). Because Thai people are generally petite with small frames and delicate features, I have never seen men look so believably like women before (and with such small hands!). For the final act, they even brought male audience members on stage and had them dress up and dance along with them. If you are planning on going to one drag show in Thailand (and you should), this is definitely the one not to miss!

Queens Cabaret, Koh Tao

After my island escape, it is now time to go back to Bangkok for another night before meeting up with my Contiki tour for the next part of my trip. I'm sad to leave behind this carefree island life that I've adopted over the past week, but very excited for what's to come! 

It's not goodbye...it's see you later, Hanoi!

I can't believe a month has already flown by and I'm about to leave the city which has become my home. Even though I've only been here for a month, I feel like this place has changed me.

Thao, one of my coworkers at IPMax, told me that in Buddhism, they believe that someone comes into your life not by accident, but because you have met in a previous life. She told me with absolute certainty that I came here for a reason - because we have met before, and that we will likely meet again in another life. That was one of the most touching things someone has ever said to me. Looking back on it, I wouldn't be able to tell you why I chose Hanoi as my home base for my trip, but can only say that it was meant to be.

I will keep my IPMax family, all the friends that I've made, and all the people in this city forever in my heart.

Until we meet again, Hanoi.

Now on to another adventure: Thailand! 

Hanoi Street Food

Ok so I think that this topic deserves a post all to itself: Hanoi street food. Simply put, Hanoi is a foodie's paradise. And I, being the food lover that I am, quickly set out on a one-woman mission of trying as many different types of Vietnamese dishes during my quick stint in the city. While street dining seems tempting and adventurous to tourists, it can be very intimidating once faced with the fact that you actually have no idea of what is going to be served to you. However, I quickly learned the trick to navigating the different food stalls: shut up, don't ask questions, and eat! And eat I did.

In this post I'm going to talk about some of my favorite vietnamese dishes that are easily found on almost every street in Hanoi: Bun cha, Pho bo, Bun bo nam bo, and Banh mi.

The thing with most street restaurants in Hanoi is that they have a very limited menu, usually consisting of just one or two dishes. So once you take your place on one of the mini plastic red and blue chairs, it is a signal that you are ready to eat, and a vietnamese woman will begin bringing you food - without even having to order a thing. So that is exactly what I did. Walking down the streets of Doi Can street, I found a teeny little restaurant wedged in the alley between two buildings. The sign on the stall said "Bún chả". Having no idea what I was in store for, and it being my first experience with street food in Hanoi, I took a seat and anxiously waited to be served. I think the food gods were on my side that day, because what appeared in front of me two minutes later was the most glorious dish, which soon became my absolute favorite. Bún chả is a delicious bowl of grilled pork balls (chả) served over white rice noodles (bún) and herbs with a side dish of dipping sauce. 

My first taste of Hanoi Street food: Bún chả on Doi Can street

Bún chả from Doi Can street - unbeatable. A basket of noodles, a steaming bowl of pork patties soaked in nuoc mam cham, and a side of greens to add in to taste. 

Next up is everybody's favorite: Pho Bo (beef noodle soup), which will put you back on average between 20,000-40,000 VND (approx. US$1-2). One Vietnamese chef and food writer once said "Pho is life, love and all things that matter" - and I couldn't agree more. Pho is probably the most emblematic of vietnamese cuisine, and the most widely recognized worldwide. This popular soup consists of rice noodles (thin or thick), paper thin slices of beef which are cooked by the steaming beef broth, and topped off with onions, coriander, and chili to taste. This traditional soup is primarily served with either beef (bo) or chicken (ga). 

Perfect bowl of Pho Bo

Pho Bo with a side of Nem

 Giving in to a little late-night pho craving

Another dish that you absolutely must have when visiting the city is an extremely popular street food which originated in Hanoi: Bun bo nam bo. Bun noodles (thin, spaghetti-like rice noodle) are served in a bowl on top of a bed of fresh lettuce and topped with a stir-fry of beef and bean sprouts. Then, a broth is poured over the mixture and chopped peanuts and shallots are sprinkled over the top. Sometimes, fresh mint leaves are also added in for some extra taste (not that it needs any more). When you get the plate, give the noodles a good stir to mix them in with all the broth that has seeped to the bottom, and enjoy! 

Bun Bo Nam Bo on Ta Hien

Bun Bo Nam bo on Hang Dieu

Another must-try street food find that I have discovered in Hanoi is Banh mi (or banh my), which is considered to be more of a snack as it is probably not filling enough for most to be an entire meal. Banh mi is pretty much as close to fast food as it gets in Hanoi (no wonder the Vietnamese are all so thin...North American's should take a hint!). 

So what is it? Banh mi is a sandwich - the product of French colonialism in Indochina - which combines ingredients from the French (baguette, pâté and mayonnaise) with native Vietnamese ingredients such as cilantro, chili peppers and pickled carrots. But don't be fooled by the use of the term "baguette"! Although they borrowed the term from the French, it is nothing like your traditional French baguette. This special kind of bread is baked a certain way, making it crispy on the outside and soft on the inside! (Are you drooling yet?) What also makes it very different than our sandwiches in the western world is the fact that the banh mi bread is made with half wheat and half rice flour. The result is a bread with a light and airy feel, not as filling as a traditional baguette - making it the perfect on-the-go snack! 

The toppings of the famous street food can vary according to the different stalls and according to your preference. The most common toppings are pâté, cold cuts, or grilled pork. Another option is the breakfast version of the banh mi, which replaces the meat stuffing with an egg sunny-side-up and onions. Any way you choose to have it, it is absolute perfection. 

Banh mi stalls in Hanoi 

Banh mi with grilled pork

Breakfast version of the famous Banh mi sandwich with egg